The film industry has a significant influence on popular culture and trends, including fashion. As concerns about the environmental impact of the fashion industry continue to grow, it is becoming increasingly important to bring sustainability into all aspects of fashion, including the film industry. Promoting sustainable fashion in the film industry can not only raise awareness about the importance of sustainable practices but also encourage viewers to make more conscious fashion choices. Moreover, this can inspire designers, filmmakers, and consumers alike to consider the impact of their choices on the planet and take steps towards a more sustainable future. We had the pleasure of taking an interview with Debora Frosini, a sustainable fashion designer who recently collaborated with the Tuscany actress Shari Fontani to bring sustainable fashion to the big screen.
Debora’s Journey of Introducing Sustainable Fashion in the Film Industry
Debora Frosini’s journey in fashion started after high school after working for various brands in the knitwear industry. However, it was her collaboration with a sustainable fashion brand in Florence that led her towards a more sustainable approach to fashion. In 2021, Frosini launched her own sustainable knitwear brand, Atelier Biologico, which is inspired by nature, tradition, and Tuscan craftsmanship. Her passion for sustainability and fashion led her to collaborate with Fontani for Alessandro Baccini’s latest film, ‘The Last Fighter’, which brings attention to the Syrian war and sustainability. Frosini’s work on the costumes for the film showcases her commitment to sustainable fashion.
Designing costumes for a film sounds like a dream job. Tell us about your journey to get where you are today.
I grew up in a family where I was lucky enough to always see my grandmothers, aunts, and mom sewing or knitting. After high school, I started working with my mother in her knitwear workshop. During that time, we worked for different designers and brands, so I was able to learn a lot. Later, I spent over ten years collaborating with one of the first sustainable brands in Italy. The founder was an agronomist who taught me so much about the fashion industry and its impacts on the environment. During those years, we collaborated with schools, brands, and even with special events and I met plenty of enthusiastic people in the field.
When I realized what was happening in the fashion industry and how destructive it had become for our planet, I was shocked. Since that moment, my life had totally changed and I couldn’t look at the world around me with the same eyes. It was during that time when I met the Tuscany-based actress and model Shari Fontani and we became friends.
She was very interested in sustainable fashion and we collaborated on different projects like an ‘ARTIVISM’ shooting for a competition launched by Fashion Revolution Italy. Although we weren’t selected, I believe that artivism has no winners or losers. Artivism is just an art form to complain, to reflect, to do something active.
When Shari was chosen as the co-protagonist in Alessandro Baccini‘s film, she asked me to dress her up for the movie. After learning about the theme of the film and the story, I decided to go for it because it could be a wonderful opportunity to bring sustainable fashion to the cinema world. Nobody talks about what happens behind a movie’s production, nobody thinks about the environmental impact of the heaps of costumes used, creating the setups, the makeup, the gadgets used for the promotion, the meals, and so on. Could you imagine a zero-impact film production? How wonderful it would be.
To me, my ‘masterpiece’ was the elegant long dress that Shari wore at the Venice Film Festival in 2019. I made it using certified organic undyed linen with my mom’s help who collaborates with me in our knitwear atelier. Can you believe that I had it in my mind before starting to make it?
So, all in all, my dream slowly came true as I got the opportunity to show the world that another kind of fashion is possible; a fashion with zero negative impact on the environment, a fashion that has elegant and simple designs that reflect the symbol of my atelier thanks to the small roses on it.
What were your inspirations for designing costumes for “The Last Fighter”?
Scene from the movie “The Last Fighter” featuring Shari Fontani
To design and make the costumes of Shari Fontani in ‘The Last Fighter’ film, I was inspired by her character. She plays a young beautiful woman, who is a doctor and later becomes a mother-to-be. She wore clothes with simple timeless designs to spread an important message, which is – don’t follow trends, be your own trend. Be yourself and take care of your clothes.
I think wearing clothes with simple designs is easier to match and re-wear. And choosing colors we love and not following trends help us to make the best use of our clothes, giving them longer lifespans.
What challenge(s) did you face while designing these costumes to bring sustainable fashion in the film industry?
The ‘challenge’ was to use fibers with the lowest environmental impact and make sure that no workers were exploited in the process. We made the costumes in the same place with our own hands, with the highest transparency. But being able to support the local handcrafting culture is a dreamy opportunity and I’m deeply grateful for this.
What inspired you to become a member of the Slow Fashion Movement Italia?
I’ve been a member of Slow Fashion Italia since November 2022, so very recently. I decided to join them because I love collaborating to educate people and being a part of a group that does that too was something exceptionally wonderful, especially because I had the opportunity to exchange ideas, opinions, and experiences with other members.
There are so many people in the world who are still either unaware or don’t want to believe in climate change – people who don’t take any interest in knowing who made their clothes and in what conditions, or anything about the fashion industry’s impact. So I think educating them about those things is important. And doing so with the help of a community can really make a difference.
Tell us how you feel about working as a part of the team of award-winning filmmakers and producers like Alessandro Baccini and Domenico Costanzo?
To me, collaborating with Alessandro Baccini, the award-winning filmmaker and producer Domenico Costanzo along with actress Shari Fontani was a dreamy opportunity. I always loved movies and always hoped to be part of new projects in them in the future.
When I met them, the best thing I noticed about them was how much passion they put in their work. I couldn’t be more proud of this collaboration and a special thanks goes to all of the members of the movie cast.
Your friend, actress Shari Fontani rocked your beautiful pieces on the red carpets. Tell us how she feels about your work and slow fashion.
When I met Shari for the very first time, she was really attracted to my work. She is someone who really understands the importance of slow fashion with a low impact on our planet. Since then, she has always been a great supporter and a beautiful model for my dresses.
I think finding someone in the ‘stars system’ who pays so much attention to the environment is very important. There are lots of young people looking up to them as icons. So, I think when someone is popular, it’s their duty to set a good example. And Shari is doing a wonderful job at that.
Tell us about Atelier Biologico. How do you practice and promote slow fashion through your brand?
Atelier Biologico is my soul. It brings in its collections everything I learned and everything that I am. Every single piece is designed and thought to represent a message for future generations. Every single piece is born from a dream, an idea that later became real, slowly through the hands of two generations with the creativity and manuality of more.
Atelier Biologico was born almost 2 years ago after a long journey of spending a terrible time during the pandemic when I finally found the courage to start it off. My work started with deep research focused on yarn and how to work with it by having the lowest impact on the environment; humans and all creatures who live on our beautiful planet.
Atelier Biologico is a representative member of Florentine culture. In the past, we had so many people who worked with the loom, especially in Prato. Nowadays we are risking losing most of the authentic artisanal works in the name of profit.
With my knitwear brand, I want to make clothes to measure, repair or modify yours. I usually make small capsule collections or unique pieces. I love sharing my work on socials, collaborating with organizations and schools, and participating in events because these are great opportunities for educating, ideas exchange and meeting other beautiful artists or conscious living promoters.
As a fashion designer and entrepreneur, how do you envision the future of the fashion industry?
I learned to live in the present so I don’t know what the future of the fashion industry will be. But I know what we can do today. We need to find a way to push strict laws about factors like ensuring workers’ rights, ethical supply chain processes for fibers, and the chemical dyes used in our clothing. But above all, we must start asking ourselves questions; and we need to stop thinking that someone else will save us. We are our own superheroes. If we all start taking small steps every day, I’m pretty sure we’ll see a big change in the world in a short time.
I do and always will live in the present and follow my fate doing what I love and I’m glad for all the unexpected opportunities that life has given me so far.
Debora’s work of promoting sustainable fashion in the film industry surely adds a stepping stone towards a more sustainable world because it will not only encourage viewers to make more conscious fashion choices but also inspire aspiring designers, filmmakers, and consumers alike to consider the impact of their choices on the planet and take steps towards a more sustainable future.
Photographers: Danilo Cappabanca, Suyen Tommasi, Paolo Catucci and Francesco Pianigiani.
Music is a magical form of art that has the power to touch souls. It has a way of connecting people, beyond language barriers and cultural differences. Music fosters a sense of belonging and community by enabling people to express themselves and engage with others on a deeper level. As we listen to music, we are taken to a world of emotions and feelings that can make us feel alive, bring us peace, or even inspire us to take actions.
And it’s not just people who create music. With its own distinctive sounds and rhythms, nature contributes to this symphony as well. Birds tweeting, leaves rustling in the breeze, and waves crashing on the shore: these natural sounds influence musicians and artists to produce music that captures the splendor and majesty of our planet.
Inanna, also known as Annalisa G. Dunker is one such musician who uses her art to promote environmental sustainability and inspire people to take action for the future of our planet. Through her soulful songs and fascinating videos, Inanna conveys a message of harmony and hope. She believes that music can be a powerful force for change, uniting people to safeguard the environment and build a better future for future generations.
In this exclusive interview, we speak with Inanna about her journey as a musician, her inspiration for writing about environmental issues, and how she envisions her music influencing the world for the better. So sit back, relax, and join us as we delve deeper into the world of Inanna and her music.
What inspired you to use your creativity and imagination in singing for the planet?
I moved here to Los Angeles in the summer of 2018, I knew that at that point I had a clean page that I could start again, in this city with many things that I am passionate about. It was actually very easy, kind of a quick-change, not only of life but of career in general.
Music-wise, I had done a lot of things before – I had been a singer before in several bands and projects, but I kind of felt I still needed to find my own voice. And this time, I really wanted to do it with something with a deeper meaning with something that I could really stand for.
So the project started because I moved here and I wanted to do something on my own – produce music on my own, find my own sound and my own real voice in the music and I wanted my music to have a specific message. In this case, it was speaking up for the environment and the future of nature, the future of animals and the whole planet. And so I simply decided to dedicate all my music to that.
I really felt I had to do it because in those times, especially in early 2019 with all the new protests and Greta Thunberg and all the movements that were appearing more and more, everywhere I felt I wanted to do more apart from just changing my daily habits, or do little modifications in my daily life. I really wanted to speak up and to contribute to a cultural change and I thought – “What’s better than to be able to change culture itself? ” And I thought that I would do it through music because it’s one of my skills and one of my passions and that’s how it happened.
So, I’ve been working on all these songs and all the imagery and products around it since 2019. 2019 was the time when my very first single that came out. It came out in May 2019.
What inspired you to take the name “Inanna” and what does that mean to you?
Inanna is the name of the Sumerian goddess of love and harvest but also war and justice. I thought, the name of a goddess is something timeless that would be good for this project because I want to give a timeless feel to my music. And also, I’m talking about such enormous topics and issues. I’m taking on this task of discussing the future of humans on the planet and the future of nature – the future in general. So I thought that maybe, only the name of a goddess could contain all that.
I think what I loved the most in Inanna is her duality as a goddess figure. I felt it really fit with this project because on one hand with this music, I’m trying to invite people into a possible world where things are done better, where we reach a higher place, a better place in our relationship with animals and nature. But on the other hand there is witnessing and acknowledging everything that is happening and everything that we’ve done.
So there is this dual thing of the need for love and togetherness and connection and work all together but also the rage and the sadness for everything that unfortunately humans have done to the planet and animals. So I really thought it was a perfect match. I also liked that the name contained part of my birth name, which is Annalisa and this “Inanna” had a little bit of a part of me too, so I feel that Inanna is kind of an amplified version of myself.
Do you think art – different forms of art, can play a significant role to motivate people to take actions in their daily lives, especially now, when the climate crisis is getting worse with every passing day?
I think that all art forms and music in particular, play an enormous role in cultural and social change. Arts have an incredible power to bring people together to inspire collectivity. They have the power to speak to conscious and unconscious layers of ourselves. And that’s why in many people at many times and all points in time, they have the capacity to create these moments inside a person where you understand something in a much deeper way, in a way that only a piece of art can make you see or understand. So, I have a deep respect for all artists who are using their skills and their capacities and their tools to speak up for the things that we should definitely change, revise, redefine.
Another factor that is very important when it comes to Arts is their kind of ritualistic power, specially with music. Not only they bring a group of people together but all the people get to feel something together at the same time and even if it’s different, maybe from person to person but there is something in common, like a common ritual and I love ritualistic events because I always say – “Rituals are made to get one person into the ritual as a person and then when they go out of the ritual, they actually go out as someone else because the ritual actually does something to you”. And I feel that is exactly what I’m trying to do with my music and I feel that’s what the Arts should do, to really make you feel different after you experience that piece of art.
How can artists collaborate to make the climate movement stronger and more fruitful?
Artists can collaborate in so many different ways. I have seen it lately especially from the very beginning of this second big wave of the environmentalist movement that is growing and growing – I have seen so many organizations, associations, platforms, digital platforms and artistic endeavors being born in the last three and a half years. At the beginning of 2019, I thought I was maybe one of the only ones that were doing this – as a musician. But I’ve seen so many things happening since then and artists can definitely find so many ways to collaborate in events where they can do things together, support each other, uplift each other, help each other.
So, what I do personally is really try to stimulate and give a further impulse to gatherings like, really doing things together, whether it is an event where we talked or there is an artistic community coming together for a concert, or maybe I’ve been getting in touch with a lot of other organizations to see if we can do something together. I think, especially in these times, uplifting each other and togetherness is one of the most important things we can do. We should not see each other as competing artists or competing organizations. Because we’re really talking about the future of everything, the future of our soul. And if there’s something that we all have in common is this home, this planet and we must take care of it together.
So what I definitely recommend to all artists, entrepreneurs who are speaking up for the future of the planet and working for the future of the planet – “Get in touch to try to do things together. You’re not alone. There are so many other people doing the same and together, you’re stronger together. Together is much better.”
What do you think are needed as ingredients of a song that can create that can inspire change?
I don’t want to talk about the ingredients to make a perfect commercial song, that works for sure in a radio context or in a TV show context. To me, what really matters is speaking to two different levels in a person. Like if you have a catchy song, that’s great because it’s already the first element that will get to someone, but if that song already has a message that’s even better. And from that message, if you have different layers that will touch and communicate to different people – that’s even better. I think it’s about making it really broad and generous.
I think with the meaning you really want to try to communicate something from who you are from an authentic place. I always try to write from who I am and what I really think. I never write thinking – “Oh what is going to make people feel good or what is going to sell?” I always try to be as authentic as possible and I think that’s the best ingredient that you can put in any piece of art, for sure.
Polluters have surely lost the empathetic connection with nature, and we believe that your songs have the power to mend that connection which might make them take a stand on the right side. How do you plan to get your music to reach them?
As I was saying, the way I am trying to reach people wherever they are in life and wherever they are in the world and whatever historical experiences they have is to try to meet them where they are and to simply invite them to another view, another way of seeing things, I really think it’s important not to impose certain views.
Because we don’t know where other people come from and their past experiences and their life history. So I think one element is to be able to invite someone into something you deeply believe, as you know, your life mission and you think it’s really important for everyone. And for the future is to try to invite with generosity and invite with a smile and always try to make people try to feel what you feel like.
I really want to gather people around me, through a sense of understanding and empathy. I don’t want to blame even if I know it’s hard because we get very angry sometimes, especially environmentalists or animalists, we always think – “Oh my goodness, this is never gonna get fixed. How can some people do this? And they don’t see it.” Of course, I have those moments too and we all have, but I don’t think it’s the most effective way to invite people to what we consider the right side. I think you always have to meet people where they are and understand the enormous complexity of certain systems.
So, I think that it should always start from a place of compassion and empathy, you should always try to meet everyone where they are at, even if you know, that certain people or organizations are actively working against the future of nature and everything, we know of this planet, but the reality is so incredibly complex that the best way we have, probably, the only way we have is to try to invite always through compassion and understanding.
What’s your take on climate optimism as an artist and an activist?
I have to say that it gets very hard at times to be optimistic. Because even if I am constantly surrounded by incredible communities of environmentalists and animal rights activists that make me feel that everything is possible – that we are changing the world conversation by conversation, little by little, song by song, but at the same time you also see the tendencies and what’s going on in the world every day, it’s tough to see that a lot of things are not changing at all. But I always tell myself, – “Should I just give up because I don’t see the change that I want to see? And in the time frame that I want to see it?”
I know what I stand for and I know what I believe in. I am dreaming of a future where nature is always considered in every decision of society and economy. I’m dreaming of a society where animals are not exploited anymore, and are not mistreated anymore. And it’s a society that I acknowledge. I don’t acknowledge animals as other beings that live here on Earth with us and not for our own benefit for us.
So, I’ll just keep working for that, and I know that, even if the changes are not as fast as I would like them to be, changes are definitely happening. And that’s what keeps me optimistic. Because I see that change happening around me every day, even in the arts.
Where do you think “spirituality” stands with art and activism? Do you think that understanding “spirituality” is important to feel more environmentally empathetic?
Yeah, definitely. There is a kind of spiritual element in my songs. To me, it translates into something very simple, which is a feeling of reverence. To me that’s what spirituality is in general. It’s this feeling of reverence towards everything that is alive towards the beauty, amazing, incredible wonders, that this planet has, this incredible biodiversity of all animals, all earthlings. The feeling of reverence when you really see that and take that in is automatically spiritual to me. And that’s the feeling of rediscovered awe, that I would like to transmit through my songs and through the imagery and everything that I’m trying to do. So I guess it’s just that big feeling of awe and reverence towards the Earth and all Earthlings.
Tell us about your favorite song and why it’s your favorite.
It’s difficult because I’m very attached to several of the songs, of course, on different levels, and for different reasons. But I think that if I had to choose one, I think I would still choose “Change” which came out last year for Earth Day.
I think mostly because it’s the one that probably sums up the whole Inanna style among all the other songs. Because it’s got a powerful message, it’s got a little bit of the rage, it’s got a hopeful message of togetherness and coming together for something, it’s got a little bit of Middle Eastern hint – which is something that I do. I feel it’s a song that really summarizes a lot of what Inanna is. So I think I would still pick that one. Yeah, it’s definitely “Change.”
Who are your biggest inspirations?
People that have inspired me and that keep inspiring me – I have to say, one of the first ones that really made an impact was Charlie Chaplin and it all started because of my grandfather who was very passionate about him and all his movies. This may have got nothing to do with the environmental movement but I loved the fact that he had such a clear vision for everything that he did. His movies and everything was almost made by him single-handedly. I simply admire that all his art was really his fruit, like his product from top to toe because it was really coming from an authentic place of who he was and what he believed in.
Other inspirational figures, definitely all the current environmentalists that are doing so much for the planet. I always loved Jane Goodall – absolutely a hero of mine. I really admire what Leonardo DiCaprio is doing. I really hope to meet him at some point. I really admire all the work he’s doing and all the documentaries that he is funding.
Knowledge is power – when we know, when we’re aware of things, we can choose better, we can do better. So every artist that really takes time and spends resources in spreading knowledge, I have a very, very big admiration for them.
Another person I really admire that I have had the honor to meet lately is Maggie Baird. She’s the founder and president of “Support and Feed” an organization that I love. Maggie is Billie Eilish’s mother. She’s been working so hard to promote the plant-based equitable food system. And I really hope her organization will grow more and more because it’s really fantastic what they’re doing.
What’s your mantra for life?
I don’t know if it’s actually a mantra for life but I love to sign my newsletters and my messages to my fans and people that know the Inanna project with this little sentence – “A hand is a paw is a fin is a wing. – Inanna.”
This is a part of a series where Green & Beyond explores the stories and takes a peek at the lifestyles of incredible people like green entrepreneurs, innovators, climate advocates, activists, community leaders, and content creators, all around the world, who love the planet, and are working tirelessly to make the world a better place.
Co-founder of Slow Fashion Movement, Lena Hartog is a woman of many talents. While she’s an organizer, a campaigner, and a trainer with a passion for social movements, deep ecology, and sustainability, she has also co-founded projects like Sail to the COP at the first Dutch UN youth climate conference.
Tell us your backstory. Where did this incredible journey start?
I think it started where it starts for most people, with the question – “What is the purpose of my life?” As a teenager, I used to be happy, but sometimes I was a bit lonely and existential, wondering what this life is about. That’s when I started reading a lot about what makes a purposeful life, and from that, I realized that it really gives my life more happiness if I get to make my life serve something bigger than me – like a higher purpose.
And, in that search, I started reading more about the problems in the world. I studied Sociology and read about social inequalities. That’s when it hit me how all the problems I care about, that are making the world a sh*tty place right now – like, gender inequality, racial inequality, income inequality, and so on – will become so much bigger with the climate crisis. I remember reading This Changes Everything by Naomi Klein after my bachelor’s studies and that was a real turning point in my life; it changed everything. I realized that this is going to be the biggest challenge of our lifetime, I think, as humanity. And living in the privileged part of the world, in the Netherlands, Europe, I saw it as my moral responsibility to dosomething about it.
So, in the first instance, it started as a way to make myself happy, because I think a happy life serves society as a whole, but in the second instance, I think once you’ve seen the facts, it’s really hard to ignore it and to let it go.
So, in my own journey of searching for where I can make an impact not only as an individual, but also collectively, I realized that fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world, and it’s also one of the ways in which I can change the world a little starting from my own wardrobe. But, if you only change by yourself, it doesn’t really make much of an impact. So, the non-profits I used to work for, called Collaction – they work by taking collective individual actions – just like crowd-funding, they do crowd-acting. They started a campaign called ‘Slow Fashion Season’ years ago. It started just as a small campaign in The Netherlands, and I think over 1,500 people participated for the first time by not buying any new fashion items for that summer. As they realized there is so much fast fashion, and people are really almost addicted to it, so we need to kind of detox ourselves to change our behaviors. And then one time, the campaign exploded as it grew very big on Instagram, and people from all over the world were loving the idea and wanted to participate.
So, when I joined the non-profit, we had already done a few of those Slow Fashion Season campaigns in the summers. So the idea was – three months of not buying any fashion items, with as many people together as possible. At that point, I realized, that with a group of people, we gotta turn this into a more permanent movement. That’s when Slow Fashion Movement was born. So it’s really been a collective effort, from the very start, working together with people from all over the world. And now we’re a year further, and we have a beautiful global team working on it, we have grown our Instagram page a lot, and I really have to say ‘we’ because even though I am the co-founder, we are like a group of co-founders, so it’s always been a very collaborative effort from the start.
I think it’s the power of social media. Social media has good sides, and it has very dark sides too. I think Instagram can seduce you to buy more and more and more, with all the influencers and marketing. But it also works the other way around – like when the Slow Fashion Season started as a small Instagram campaign in The Netherlands, with no budget, and no paid employees, people still saw it and found it interesting. So, the slow fashion community on Instagram started growing, and I think the right people found us and the other way around. We’ve had people like Puja from India who stepped in and said, “You know, this is what I’ve been waiting for. I want to help, and I am going to start with changing my own wardrobe.” And what we’ve seen a lot is that people joined as participants, so they saw us on Instagram and they thought, “Okay, cool, nice, I’ll try it one summer,” and later they joined as ambassadors, or as volunteers as well. So that’s really how we grew globally.
I always advise people to participate and also try to give them the chance to do so. So we always tried to create a space where everyone could participate and we put out postings like, “Hey, we’re looking for volunteers, if you want to join, you’re welcome!” and that’s how we grew into the beautiful team that we are today.
What’s it like, working with the global team at Slow Fashion Movement? Tell me about the challenges and rewards.
I think the most rewarding fact is that you get to know people who share the same values, but live completely different lives in different countries. Not only we’ve made so many new friends around the world, but it’s also rewarding on a deeper level, as I’m always reminded that there are lots of people who want to do better for society, who don’t agree with the current culture. And I think that’s something that gives me a lot of hope too.
One of the challenges of working with a global team is definitely a more logistical one (Chuckles). I don’t know how many times I’ve googled “Convert to CEST time,” to understand others’ time zones. And I’m always having to think “How do I schedule meetings with someone in Latin America, someone in Asia, someone in Europe, and someone in Australia..?” We had a team like that one summer. So, that definitely needs a bit of effort, especially because all of us are volunteers, which means we have to do this outside our working hours. So, sometimes I wish we all lived in the same time zone, to make it easier. But I think, diversity is a necessity to do something like this, and you pay a price for that, which is usually a bit of a logistical price in this case. (Chuckles)
Why should we care about slow fashion, according to you?
Well, I think before caring about slow fashion there’s this question of, “Why should we care about the world,” right? And that’s because – WE are life. We, protecting nature – it’s really like we are nature protecting itself. The web of life right now, it’s not doing well, it’s been hurting, it’s damaged, and it’s going down. And, within that web of life, all sectors need to change. And I think with fashion, one of the main things we are fighting against is this idea that fashion is something you buy, throw away and, repeat. Most clothes are only used four or five times, while clothes can be made to last a lifetime. So, we really talk about slow fashion, and not just about sustainable fashion, because we want to see a big culture shift. It’s not just about using ecological materials to make new clothes, it’s really about deepening our relationship with fashion.
So, while there is the over-usage, over-consumption, and over-production in fashion, and then there’s also the use of chemical toxins through paints, and then there’s also the issue of excessive water usage in fashion. It’s the second most water-consuming industry in the world. And I think for me, the main reason above all of that is that I think the fashion industry shows what’s wrong with our current economy. Because it really shows how something’s being made to last very short and the marketing’s being done in a way to seduce people to make it last very short. So, I think the best way to start that change, is to change our relationship with all products that we buy.
What do you think is needed to change the global culture of fast consumption?
Well, I think what needs to change is the way we market fashion. And I think many people buy more because they are reminded to do so. And not just by companies themselves, with marketing and advertising, but also by each other. So, I think, we as consumers towards each other, but also companies towards us, need to make it normalnot to advertise so much. And then, one layer below that is, of course, the production. So we need to produce fewer seasons, and the seasons we do make, we need to make much better quality. And I think for that, we need transparency in the picture. So, right now fashion is one of the most intransparent industries, it’s impossible to know where your cotton comes from. How can a consumer, in such a landscape, know what to buy? So first, we need to talk to each other and let’s say, not so much marketing – not so much influencer marketing to each other, inspire each other to buy less; then, of course, no more production, fewer seasons, and then more transparency.
What helps you keep going, and doing what you do?
I always like that question, because it changes you in a way. I think, on the most basic level, we need to have humility and gratefulness to be alive. Like, life is a present, life is a gift, and it’s been given to me, I don’t know for how many days more, right? I could always die tomorrow, I never know. And, because life has been such a gift to me, I want to cherish it and make sure the future generations can enjoy it too but also current generations who don’t have the great privileges that I have. I feel like I’ve experienced a lot of happiness in my life, and I just want to create a world where everyone can do that, and I believe we are getting there, so, it’s both – I want to cherish it, and I see the change, I see movements, I see people coming up – and that’s the motivation.
What do you want to achieve with the Slow Fashion Movement?
Well, I have to say, right now, I am also in the process of letting go. We started our official non-profit, and I am on the legal board, and I’ve also transferred a lot of the tasks to Puja and Bhavna, who are now on the operational board. So, I think what we want to achieve is just that it becomes a sustainably-run movement so that it can last. And then, in the long run, we want to transform the fashion industry – we want to make fashion a force for good. We do believe that fashion has a beauty to it, a creative expression to it, and you can find your identity in it, but it’s just that the industry has to change the way it’s done. And at Slow Fashion Movement, we focus more on the consumers’ side and on education, because we believe if people understand more what the industry is about, and how they can change their own habits, then we can also change the culture of fashion.
What do you think the future of fashion looks like to you? Do you think people are becoming more and more aware of the problems with the fashion industry?
Yes, I think, when looking at social change, there are always different waves going under at the same time, right? So, to look at a sea, and focus on one wave, and then to be disappointed that another wave is also there – that never helps. I think there’s definitely this wave of people that are becoming more conscious, that are changing their behaviors, inspiring each other, to buy less, to knit winter clothes, but there’s also still a huge wave of people who are now turning into fashionistas. They do it themselves, but they are also turned into it by the industry. So, I hope the future of fashion will be slow, but I do think we have reached the societal tipping point where sustainability is becoming more mainstream. And so the future of fashion – timeless fashion – made very high-quality, people have a very deep relationship with their clothes, and we all learn from our parents and our grandparents how to repair our clothes again, and maybe, even the future of fashion has a… virtual part, like, I’ve also learned that there are some people who pay for virtual dresses (chuckles) but I personally like more the idea of very small, local trading communities, where you swap your clothes with your neighbors, everyone learns how to sew their own clothes, and, they only get a few new products a year.
How do you take care of your mental health during times of distress? Tell us how you practice spirituality, and self-care and also how you deal with negative emotions like eco-anxiety.
I love that question, I think it’s so important. I think, at the start, um, I once learned from a trainer, this kind of motto that says, “I am me, my work is my work, I put full attention in my work, but my work is not me.” And I think that’s the most important thing, especially in idealistic work: not to identify with it. I create it, but, also, it’s not me, even if I don’t fulfill anything at the end of the day, I’m a good human being, just by existing. And I think practicing that and reminding myself of that and coming back to that, is more important than anything, like that’s the relationship I have with my work.
And then I think more… emotionally. I’ve learned a lot from Joanna Macy, with her book Active Hope, she’s a lifetime activist who’s in her 80s right now; she developed this beautiful method on how to reconnect with yourself, reconnect with others, and reconnect with nature – and from that method and training program, I’ve become a facilitator there, I’ve really learned to grieve more. So, for example, when the war in Ukraine started, I really took the time to read the news and take a moment of my day where I also had the space to cry. Because it’s ridiculous that we read so much news, and we expect to treat it like simple information, like, facts that don’t do anything to us. It’s actually weird, I think, to read about other humans dying, and not feel anything. But if we read the news all the time, it’s impossible to do that, and I used to do that, right? Like just before sleeping, I used to read a little bit on my phone, and now I really try to be conscious of when I am taking in information like that and making space for my emotions, so just ask myself, “How do I feel about it?”. It might sound paradoxical, but, the more I cry, the better I feel I am doing, because I think, in today’s world, it’s normal to cry a lot, and it’s abnormal to not.
So again, there’s this toxic positivity culture, which I was involved in as well – like I’m an optimistic, happy person; I wanna be happy, but happiness doesn’t mean… avoiding negative emotions. Being me – means being able to swing as much to the sad side, as to the happy side of me. And, I’ve been growing that year by year, because I have also been trained to think more than to feel, right? We live in a very thinking time.
What’s your mantra for life?
Yeah (Chuckles). I have quite a lot of them, um, but I think the one in the end, I have it tattooed on my wrist. So, it’s a tattoo I got a few years ago, and I thought about it for a long time. And for me, it stands for the idea that, as a human being, my life is one drop in the ocean, and that means it’s unique. Every drop is unique, but it also means it’s not that feasible in the greatest scheme of things. I can choose which waves I’m part of, and that wave shapes history a little bit, but it also makes me humble in a way. I will join this life for a part, maybe 80, maybe 100 years, and then I’ll leave again, and I think that’s the humbleness of my life, being tiny, but then the chance to shape the direction of the ocean, that gives me a lot of strength. And it helps me to also laugh about my own little problems.
What’s your dream?
Actually, this week when I was making a nice mood board, for my life; I realized a lot of my dreams that I have fulfilled right now. Like, I live in a beautiful community house with people I care about, I have a job in which I am making an impact, and I am surrounded by beautiful friends. So, I think, my dream is just – to be able to continue to do work with an impact, to love the people around me, and, to help – in the end, liberate myself and society from all the structures that are holding us down. Because I have become freer in my life, and that’s not just about climate change, but also about my queer sides and being sexually free, and free to be open with my emotions. And if I can help others to do the same, and still free myself, then that’s the dream.
How can others be involved with the Slow Fashion Movement?
First, really to emphasize again, it’s never been just me, there’s like a beautiful group of people working on it right now and I’m not even that involved practically. I have helped set it up and stayed involved from a distance. So, anyone can start to follow us, our Instagram channel is our main channel – Slow Fashion Movement. And then, if you feel inspired one way or another, you can become an ambassador. You can get in touch with Puja, she’s the Ambassador Coordinator. She’s amazing; she’s a pearl – I really really love her. And then maybe you can even join the team! You can volunteer, make friends, and just help to transform the fashion industry.
Where can people find you, online, if they want to get in touch with you, or follow what you’re doing?
So you can follow Slow Fashion Movement. The group is doing amazing work and I’m so happy with it. And, for myself, you can find me on Instagram, so Lena Hartog, I don’t think there’s many of us, there’s a Swedish lady who’s 50, so-– not that one (Laughs). And I have a website as well – lenahartog.com. Always feel free to send me an email, or send me a message on Instagram; I’ll respond if it’s not some crazy spam. I’ll be happy to talk to you.
This is a part of a series where Green & Beyond explores the stories and takes a peek at the lifestyles of incredible people like green entrepreneurs, innovators, climate advocates, activists, community leaders, and content creators, all around the world, who love the planet, and are working tirelessly to make the world a better place.
Let me ask you something – How confused does the term “digital fashion” make you? Do you feel like you are the only one who is left in the room for having the least amount of knowledge on this topic? Are all the super-cool terms that are used to discuss “digital fashion” super-critical for you?
But even after all of these, you are still concerned about the fashion industry, climate crisis, our planet, people, and the future? Well! Firstly, let’s just say that you are not alone in this! Cheers! Secondly, let’s try to understand the topic ( as much as possible with all my abilities and limitations! ) in a really easy language, shall we?
Understanding Digital Fashion
Photo by The Fabricant – the first-ever digital-only fashion house
Most of us probably know that there are people who don’t like to appear on social media in the same dress twice! This irresponsible behavior costs us natural resources and leaves us with waste and pollution.
Digital fashion was actually born to solve this problem. The idea of making your avatar in a computer game just as you like it was there for quite a long time and digital fashion took this idea to another level by offering consumers to buy virtual dresses by making clothes using pixels rather than fabrics.
The final product of this genre of fashion can be divided into two kinds. One is when a 3D-designed dress is fed into a 3D printer and as the result, the exact same dress comes out. The second one is when a 3D-designed dress is used as a virtual product for virtual platforms.
The evolution of Digital Fashion
In 2018, Carlings, a Scandinavian retailer released an all-digital collection called Neo X. Customers provided a photo to Carlings to be digitally tailored and the designers edited the clothing onto the customer. Pretty cool, right?
Now in 2022, within 4 years the whole digital fashion-centric scenario changed a lot – there are businesses like Fabricant, the world’s first digital-only fashion house, and the Helsinki Fashion Week held their entire program virtually on Digital Village; a social metaverse, Instagram influencer Lil Miquela who has over 3 million followers is advocating for digital fashion. Even now we have institutions that are teaching digital fashion as a completely different subject.
It is not tough to understand that when it comes to manufacturing, digital fashion is greener than the regular fashion industry. According to Daria Shapovalova and Natalia Modenova, the owners of Dress X, the production of their digital garments emits 97% less CO2 than a physical garment. Also, It was also found that a digital garment, on average, saves 3300 liters of water per item.
The carbon footprint of the Helsinki Fashion Week also proved that positive changes are possible with the help of digital fashion. It was found by the HFW that the carbon footprint per visitor dropped from 137kg to 0.66kg CO2e after shifting to completely digital. This is surely remarkable because another study conducted in 2020 looked at the carbon emissions produced by buyers and designers traveling to the four major fashion weeks (New York, London, Paris, and Milan). The total emissions were found to be 241,000 tonnes of CO2e, which is the equivalent of 51,000 cars on the road or 3,060 years of lighting the Eiffel Tower.
I know what you are thinking right now ( if you are not bored yet and still here with me! ) – it seems like major problems of the conventional fashion industry are being solved with the help of digital fashion. But is there any catch? Let’s find out together!
Let’s talk about Sustainability now…
Photo by The Fabricant – the first-ever digital-only fashion house
So, the catch is that these digital designs are mostly saved as something called NFT. Non-fungible tokens are the meaning of NFT ( but that doesn’t make it easier to understand, I know :/ ). A non-fungible token means it is something that is unique and can’t be replaced with something else. Let me try to make it a bit clearer, bitcoin or any other currency is a form of a fungible token which means you can exchange your currency with another currency and the value of your wealth will still remain the same. But, an NFT is a one-of-a-kind trading card and if you try to exchange that, you will have something which is completely different from the NFT. The fun fact is every kind of art that exists digitally can be saved as NFT and it is possible for artists and designers to own and sell those too.
In the digital fashion industry, the designs or the clothes are mostly saved as NFT and they are recorded on Ethereum, which is a blockchain-based platform and has its own cryptocurrency. Now the catch is that, for saving these NFTs and for the transaction of these NFTs, a huge amount of energy is needed. Previously the power consumed by one single Ethereum transaction is equivalent to that of an average US household over 8.65 days! But the good news is that Ethereum has successfully made its system more eco-friendly by shifting to a new mechanism, known as proof-of-stake which helped them to cut its energy usage and carbon footprint by approximately 99.99% each according to the Crypto Carbon Ratings Institute.
But, the problem of overproduction and overconsumption still exists and the industry of digital fashion is still unable to address this issue. ”Digital is not necessarily always less impactful on the environment. We are producing far more than we actually need, and producing more digitally does not resolve that issue,” said Céline Semaan, the executive director of Slow Factory Foundation who was quoted in an article on Refinery.
It is true that, though digital fashion is addressing many of these problems, solving them completely is most likely impossible for it. For genuine change to happen, not only the digital one but the whole fashion industry still has a long way to go.
